Cosmetic ingredients FAQ
15 clear, sourced answers to understand the INCI list without fearmongering.
How do you read an INCI list?
The INCI list uses harmonised names and generally lists ingredients in descending quantity down to the 1% threshold. Below that, their order may vary. Position is therefore a clue, not an exact concentration.
Official source
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · CosIng database: European Commission
Who decides whether an ingredient is allowed in Europe?
EU cosmetics law defines prohibited, restricted and specifically authorised substances. The Commission updates its annexes using scientific opinions from the SCCS. CosIng helps identify ingredients, but the regulation is legally authoritative.
Official source Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · SCCS opinions
Does natural mean safer than synthetic?
No. Natural or synthetic origin alone does not determine safety. Safety depends on the substance, purity, dose, route of exposure and intended use. Natural substances can also irritate or cause allergy.
Regulated use
Official sources CosIng database: European Commission · DGCCRF
What do “free from parabens, silicones or sulfates” claims mean?
They describe an absence but do not prove that a product is safer or more effective. Claims must not denigrate authorised ingredients. They may still help someone who specifically wants to avoid a substance.
Regulated use
Official sources DGCCRF · EU Cosmetics Regulation
Are all parabens banned?
No. Some parabens are banned, while others remain authorised in the EU under defined concentrations and uses. Check the exact INCI name: “paraben” does not describe one single regulatory status.
Allowed in the EU Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · SCCS opinions
Is phenoxyethanol allowed?
Yes, as a preservative up to 1% in EU cosmetics. The SCCS considered it safe at that concentration for assessed uses. “Allowed” does not mean nobody can react; individual intolerance remains possible.
Allowed in the EU Regulated use
Official sources SCCS opinions · EU Cosmetics Regulation
Why are MIT and MCI tightly regulated?
These preservatives caused many cases of contact allergy. Methylisothiazolinone is banned in leave-on products and tightly limited in certain rinse-off products. A confirmed allergy warrants avoiding the relevant INCI names.
Regulated use
Official sources SCCS opinions · EU Cosmetics Regulation
Are sulfates always harsh?
No. “Sulfates” covers several surfactants. Tolerance depends on the molecule, concentration, full formula, contact time and skin. A rinse-off cleanser may suit some skin and dry out another.
Allowed in the EU
Official sources CosIng database: European Commission · EU Cosmetics Regulation
Do silicones suffocate skin?
Cosmetic silicones mainly form a film that improves feel and limits water loss. They do not stop skin from “breathing”. Some are nevertheless restricted, particularly for environmental reasons or depending on use.
Allowed in the EU Regulated use
Official sources CosIng database: European Commission · EU Cosmetics Regulation
Why are allergens listed separately from “parfum”?
Fragrance may contain many substances. Certain fragrance allergens must be named individually above regulatory thresholds to help sensitised people. Their presence provides information; it does not mean everyone is allergic.
Allergen to declare Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · SCCS opinions
Do all alcohols dry the skin?
No. Ethanol or Alcohol Denat. may be drying depending on amount and formulation. Fatty alcohols such as Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are different: they often act as emollients or texture agents.
Official source
Official sources CosIng database: European Commission
Are UV filters and nanoparticles allowed?
Only UV filters listed by EU law are allowed, under specific concentrations and conditions. Nanomaterials must carry “[nano]”. Assessment depends on form and exposure route; some forms are not allowed in sprays that could be inhaled.
Allowed in the EU Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · ANSES · SCCS opinions
Can retinol be used without precautions?
Cosmetic retinoids may irritate and increase skin sensitivity. The EU now regulates certain vitamin A forms and concentrations, with label warnings. Gradual introduction and sun protection are reasonable precautions.
Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · SCCS opinions
Is an essential oil always gentle because it is natural?
No. Essential oils are concentrated mixtures that may contain irritating or allergenic substances. Tolerance depends on the oil, dose and use. “Natural” does not remove restrictions or the need for professional advice in specific situations.
Allergen to declare Regulated use
Official sources EU Cosmetics Regulation · ANSES
What is known about endocrine disruptors, and how can a reaction be reported?
Endocrine-disrupting potential is assessed substance by substance and knowledge evolves; no simple list summarises every cosmetic use. In France, adverse effects can be reported through the public reporting portal, supporting ANSES cosmetovigilance.
Official source Regulated use
Official sources ANSES · DGCCRF · SCCS opinions
Information checked on 2 October 2026. Regulations and scientific opinions may change.